Nobody told us about the market. That's sort of the point. We found it by accident, the way you find most of the good things in the Castelli Romani: walking somewhere else entirely, hearing a sound that didn't belong to a regular Tuesday, and following it. A few streets over from where we were staying, the main piazza had been taken over completely. Tables end to end, awnings up, a low hum of conversation that got louder the closer we got. Nobody had mentioned it. Nobody need